We are sure it is obvious to anyone reading this blog that our interest in food borders on the obsessive. We love cooking, eating (of course), tasting new things, exploring culinary traditions from around the world, and our cookbook collection is ever-growing with no end in sight.
It should come as no surprise, then, that we are self-professed market fiends. No matter where we go, our first port of call is the market, be it big, small, obscure, or the biggest tourist-trap for miles. We don’t discriminate either – we are just as happy with markets selling fresh produce as we are with markets filled with odd souvenirs and piles of plastic shoes made in China. From Vienna to Dusseldorf, as close to home as Twickenham, and as far-flung as the excellent weekly market in Lalibela, Ethiopia (complete with a ‘parking lot’ for donkeys), we’ve made it our mission to see as many markets in as many countries as possible. Markets provide a wonderful insight into the local culture and daily life outside what the guidebooks tell you.
Columbia Road flower market - London
Naschmarkt - Vienna
Weekly market - Lalibela, Ethiopia
We were in market heaven in Vietnam. We found ourselves being drawn back over and over again to the same markets, wanting to see them at different times of day, and making sure we hadn’t missed a single corner. Our first encounter with Vietnamese markets was the big and bustling Ben Thanh market in Ho Chi Minh City. A market with multiple personalities, Ben Thanh has something for all tastes. The covered stalls entice you away from the heat and scooter fumes into a huge dimly-lit space crowded with stalls selling T-shirts with Uncle Ho or the ubiquitous yellow star on a red background (yours for only $1!) or a mind-boggling array of souvenirs for friends and family back home. Poke around a bit more, and you’re sure to find war memorabilia, although the authenticity may be suspect. In the centre, food stalls abound, with all manner of Vietnamese delights – freshly squeezed juice, pho (noodles in broth), spring rolls…At night, the outdoor perimeter of the market comes alive with food stalls crowded with plastic tables and chairs. Vendors try to encourage you to pick their ‘restaurant’ for your evening meal, and it’s difficult to decide where to spend your money. Slightly further out, you’ll find fruit stalls, mobile juice vans and portable carts selling a rainbow of cooked rice.
One of the many food stalls at Ben Thanh market
We were equally delighted by the market in Hoi An, which was a respite from the overwhelming number of tailors and shops selling tourist schmaltz. It’s easy to lose yourself in the densely packed stalls selling a dizzying array of fresh vegetables – lettuces, herbs (more varieties of basil than we’d ever seen before), tomatoes, onions, garlic, fresh turmeric and tamarind. Piles of beautiful fruit were everywhere – the beautiful yet bizarre dragon fruit, more than five varieties of oranges, pomelos as big as basketballs, custard apples, sapodillas (or chicoos, as I know them), longan, durian, jackfruit, guavas, and Vietnamese apples. The ‘department of fish’ is not for the squeamish. Fisherwomen, who sell the catch their husbands bring in each morning, sit behind baskets of still-jumpy shrimp, huge prawns, tilapia, and snapper, while the ground around them is covered in fish guts and blood. It’s worth the dirty shoes to see these women bantering with customers while smoking very large cigarettes.
Selling fish in Hoi An
The market in Hue seemed larger than the one in Hoi An, and more organized into distinct sections. We went in search of the famous Hue poem hats, which are like the traditional Vietnamese conical hats, but when held up to the light, you see images of sights around Hue or poems. After the requisite bargaining for our two hats, we soon got lost in the maze of fruits, vegetables, fresh meat (again, not for the squeamish!) and piles of rice noodles, rice paper wrappers, and sacks of rice.
Baskets of lentils at the market in Hue
Our only disappointment came in Hanoi. We went in search of two markets mentioned in our guidebook. One, supposedly in an alley between two major streets seems to have vanished, and the other was a hole in the ground, sadly demolished to make way for a glass and concrete monstrosity. The only remnant of anything market-like was the doner kebab stand, very grandly named the Goethe Café! That said, the entire old quarter in Hanoi was like one big market, where every small street specialized in one certain product. Shoes, coffee, mattresses, tombstones…anything you would ever need seemed to be within easy reach.
Spending a few hours in a market is an excellent way to build up an appetite, and we certainly did our fair share of sampling all that Vietnam had to offer on a plate. Stay tuned for more of our culinary adventures!